We somehow find room for the deeply satisfying tossed noodles with barbecued Iberico pork belly and spring onion. Steamed garoupa on egg white and soya custard with huadiao wine has a tension of flavour that is perfectly balanced, the fish cooked à point poached chicken with American ginseng and wolfberry uses the medicinal profile of the root to great effect. A meal here is always a special kind of experience, from the warm hospitality (the tea and wine service is a joy) to the procession of creative, accomplished cuisine that demonstrate a high level of understanding of time-honoured Chinese techniques as well as an affinity for incorporating international ingredients and influences. Despite the departure of chef Tam Kwok-Fung in mid-2018, Jade Dragon has nothing to worry about-the team are solid and well-trained, and it’s business as usual at this exemplary restaurant dedicated to the finer points of Cantonese cuisine.
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